An Experiment in Numerical Forecasting of Deep Water Ocean Waves

Résumé du livre

Many applications of wind-wave forecasting require a completely objective, high-speed method of forecasting wave spectra for large areas simultaneously. Consequently, a numerical model for forecasting wave spectral fields was defined, programmed, and tested in two sample situations. The model uses the Neumann spectrum with angular dispersion as defined by the Stereo Wave Observation Project. The usual problems in defining fetch shapes and motions are eliminated by consideration of an equivalent Lagrangian duration. In both test computations the method adequately forecasts the rise in significant height as the winds increase. However, the spectral frequencies forecast are too high and the swell does not decay fast enough. (Author).